Door Check Removal & Replacement (WJ)

Does your door creak and pop when you swing it the whole way open?  It's likely a broken/cracked "Door Check".

What's a door-check you ask?  It's that flat bar you see in the door jamb near the hinges.  The door check's function is to keep the door from opening too far.  This thing is a much larger assembly than you'd think actually.

This is the part for the driver's door - make sure you get the right part (they are different for other doors).  This is what $47 gets you.

New Door Check

I hit my door-check bolts with some PB Blaster the night before to ease the removal process.  These should come out pretty easy - if they don't, hit them again with some sort of penetrating lube.

I'm replacing the driver's door door-check in this writeup, but the process is the same for all off the doors.

First thing to do is remove the door panel.  As always with these panels, there is a probability that you will break some of the plastic fasteners.  If you've bought these in the past, you will discover that DC thinks these are made of gold....

Front Door Panel

There are 3 screws holding the door panel on along with the plastic fasteners.

One screw at the mirror (pop the cover)

Pop sail panel screw cover off

Back out the phillips screw...

Remove Sail Panel screw

Another in the door pull (phillips):

Remove screw from interior door panel

And one behind the door handle (of course this one is a T25 Torx...)

Remove Torx screw from behind door lever

I've found that it is easiest to get the panel started in the lower front area.  You need to use some good force if these haven't been off before.

Begin to pull the door panel off

Work your way along the bottom toward the rear of the door and then up the latch side.

Continue to pull the door panel off

As you pull the panel off, hold on to it.  It is still held on with two actuator rods for the operation of the door handle and the door lock as well as two wiring connectors.

Pivot the yellow keepers at the end of the rods toward the door to free the clip, then lift the rods out.  Unhook the large wiring connector by releasing the trigger and pulling it straight out.

The attached rods and electrical plugs must be unhooked

Also separate the wiring connector at the power mirror in the same fashion.

Disconnect Wiring Connector

Here's what you are left with:

Door with Door Panel Removed

Remove the 4 phillips screws holding the speaker in and unplug the wiring connector. The speaker must be removed for access to the door check assembly.

Remove Speaker and Disconnect Wiring

Push on the door with your body so there isn't alot of stress on the door check.  This will make it much easier to get the bolts out (and back in).  There is enough room to use a small 1/4" drive 10mm socket in there.  Two bolts on the vehicle side and 2 nuts on the door side.

Unbolt Door Check

Check the orientation prior to putting the new part in (see the "UP" marking)

Door Check Markings

Then maneuver the part back inside the door and out through the speaker opening.  Maneuver the new part back in the way the old one came out and bolt it up.  Make sure you run the bolts on the vehicle side in with your fingers to be sure you don't cross thread the bolts.  I had a little trouble getting mine started and could see how this might happen.

Here's the new piece in place.  It's almost like something is missing when I operate the door now (the loud creaking that is...).

Broken Door Check

Here's the cracked piece.  Sorry for the fuzzy pic, you can see where it is separated by the pin.

Finished Product

Button everything back up in reverse order and you are good to go.  Make sure you connect all of your wiring and actuator rods.

Gallery: Door Check (WJ)

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